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D’Artagnan‘s 25th Anniversary party at Guastavino’s — costumes, “bottomless” trays of foie gras, Lillet, Cahors malbecs, and live bands — The Jazzmagnacs, Michel Etcheverry, New Bumpers Revival, D’Artagnan Big Band, Evil Prince Ludwig (The Indestructible) — dancing! plus guest, ah, musicians Tom Colicchio and Drew Nieporent and singer Daniel Boulud. Air France had us retro hob-nobbing with the likes of Cary Grant, Marlene Dietrich, and Frank Sinatra (and I have the picture to prove it). Seen wandering were baking maven Rose Levy Beranbaum, food writer and Portuguese cuisine expert David Leite, Suzanne “the Palate” Taylor, and hordes of other culinary luminaries — do we have to wait 25 years for another party like this?